PU Protect your paint-job with a polyurethane clear coat

Polyurethane clear coat is the ultimate do it yourself upgrade you can give any car or truck, Durabak 18 Clear Smooth is the best product to use, here's why;

The first give away that your car is old, and on the way out, is when the clear coat starts to peel. The worst affected areas are on the parts that get hottest, but that's no coincidence. The Sun's strong rays are beating down on the hood and roof of your car, the UV and infra red light is attacking your clear coat, and making it weak. Between the heat of the engine underneath and the Sun from above your hood will probably be the first thing to look milky.

Factory Clear Coat

You factory clear coat is very thin, very very thin, it's probably between 35 and 50 microns, that's 1/500ths of an inch so there's very very little material there to protect the paint and to withstand the Sun's rays. Clearcoat is just there like a permanent polish, it encapsulates the pigmented paint and makes it shine. That's great, but it's also very brittle, which means it cracks on impact or denting, and it's very hard so it scratches easily because it can't 'give'.

Between the Sun's destructive power and the expansion and contraction of the coating due to heat from the engine and Sun the clear coat will lose it's strong bond with the paint underneath and eventually start to lift up. As it separates itself from the paint, like a blister, it transforms into an incredibly thin sheet of brittle polymer. It has no structural strength of its own and will now break and puncture for nothing.

We've all seen the look of blistered clear coat peeling off a car, showing major discoloration and generally making the body work look awful - even if there are no dents, accidents or scratches at all! Once the waterproof protection of the clearcoat has been compromised it's only a matter of time, and not a lot of time, until some water get's through to the metal body panels and corrosion starts. Corrosion will quickly fester under the remaining clearcoat and eat up the body panels and work its way to more structurally critical car parts. 

Rust is the common name for Iron Oxide, oxidized Iron. Just like a peeled apple goes brown, or a silver candlestick goes black, so too your car will begin to oxidize. Rust is not just an aesthetic issue, Iron loses all it's strength when it converts to iron oxide, which is basically a powder. You'll realize how weak it is when you see how easy it is to peel it off and snap off chunks of rust. 

So, if you want to keep your car looking new and staying safe and strong for years to come you need a better alternative to OEM clear coat. You car manufacturer mass produces everything, and just like you upgrade your car with aftermarket stereo and seats, the clearcoat they use is also cheap. 

It's not all bad news, because you can actually upgrade your clear coat for less than almost any other significant investment in your car! 

Durabak Clear Coat is thirty times thicker than OEM clear coat. 3, 0, THIRTY. But it's not just thicker, it's UV resistant. It's totally flexible and impact resistant. So instead of being brittle like a flake of glass it's like translucent rubber that flexes and gives. So if your Durabak clear coat get's a hit or a scratch it's not going to lift, peel and expose a delicate colored coat, and of course, it is a waterproof clear coat thats there to stay!

So how much does it cost?

Well a gallon of Durabak is enough to cover an entire car and that will cost under $200 including rollers and Xylene shipped to your door.